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Hackenberg
- A Fortress of The MAGINOT LINE
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| An article/review by Neil Barber | |||||
| Background of the The Maginot Line | ||||
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Following the experience of the 1914-18 War, the French government decided to look at ways of defending its borders to cover the possibility of Germany ever attacking France again. In 1922 a committee was formed to consider the options. After years of deliberation it was decided to construct a line of underground fortresses which would act as a kind of breakwater against any assault. If the Germans attempted to go around it, they would face the bulk of the French Army, with its right flank anchored to the end of the Line. Construction began in 1929, and gradually became known after the serving Minister of War, Andre Maginot. The frontier was divided into 25 sectors, each sector having a varying degree of defence, with the German/Luxembourg sectors being the most heavily defended. |
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| Hackenberg Fortress | ||||
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Hackenberg, the Line's largest fortress, lies about 8 miles from the German border. In effect it was really two fortresses connected by a tunnel of about a mile's length. In total, it contained 17 'Battle Blocks' armed with a combination of artillery, mortars and machine guns, and was home to up to a thousand officers and men. |
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| War History | ||||
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When the German offensive
began, contrary to its own plan, the French Army did not anchor itself
to the Line but advanced into Belgium and Holland, leaving only a weak
force to cover the Ardennes. It was still a considered decision, as the
Ardennes was thought to be impassable for tanks (some Germans were of
the same opinion). |
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| Visit | ||||
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You enter at what was once the ammunition entrance where a brief talk (in French) is given on the fortress. |
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| The
ammunition entrance (refurbished in 1995) Note the MG cupolas on the roof |
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After
passing through thick steel doors you are standing in the main thoroughfare
tunnel. All around, the walls are decorated with lines of original cable,
slowly corroding.
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| The main thoroughfare | ||
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After 150 yards the first branch tunnel appears on the left. This contains the magazine compartments, rows of them. Back along the main thoroughfare you reach more steel doors, guarded on either side by machine gun positions built into the wall. A right turn takes you past the fully furnished kitchens and laundry. Further on is an awe inspiring exhibition of '30s engineering, the power house. This contains all the original equipment, of which one generator is up and running. The surrounding noise, power and artistry is very impressive. Returning to the silence of the tunnels, you then pass through one of the long oppressive barrack rooms, where a vast array of uniforms, weaponry and memorabilia is displayed. At the far end, you are left in no doubt that the closeness of the enlisted men's bunks must have ensured tremendous camaraderie! With the acoustics involved the snoring must have been horrendous. Through the next door is a mini-operating theatre, and beyond that, the frightening dentist's studio. You are then led back to a 'station' to await an original narrow gauge train, once used to transport ammunition and men around the labyrinth. The train charges through the tunnels, arriving over a mile later at the defensive position of Block 9. Here, a gun turret containing two 135mm guns, elevates, descends and revolves as if brand new. Beside it, another compartment houses a 135mm howitzer. |
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| The 135mm gun turret of Block 9 | ||
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After climbing some stairs, you arrive on the roof of the Block, to find yourself surrounded by artillery, machine-gun and observation cupolas. The view east is commanding. |
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| A view from the roof of Block 9 | ||
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The gun turret is again put through its paces to show its 'in action' and 'closed down' positions |
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| 'Block 9 turret In action' | 'Closed down' | |||
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The tour concludes with a visit to the facure of Block 8 which was badly damaged by American artillery in 1944, when the guns opened fire on the advancing Allies. |
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| The facure of Block 8 | ||
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The train then returns to transport you back to the entrance. As the tour progressed, the feeling gradually grew that it was such a terrible shame the Maginot Line wasn't made the most of, and that all the incredible effort and money went to waste. In 1940, for the undefeated soldiers who manned it, it must have been absolutely devastating. |
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| Directions | ||||
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Hackenberg fortress is situated above the village of Veckring (D60), 10 miles east of Thionville (or around 20 miles north-east of Metz). |
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| Opening times | ||||
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April to October - Week-ends from 2pm to 4pm (when the last tour begins). |
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| Tour Advice | ||||
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The tour lasts about 2 hours and costs around £3 per Adult, £1.50 for children. The tours only appeared to be conducted in French and German, but I found that this detracted very little from the experience of visiting the fortress. As you might expect, the tunnels are quite damp and cold (especially on the train !), so wear something warm. There is quite a bit of walking, so you have to be quite mobile. Also, I didn't notice any toilet facilities within the fortress, so before entering, make sure you use the nightmares provided outside. |
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| Addition Information - Other Sources | ||||
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Email from Graham Croll 13/06/2000 Hi Ian, Hackenberg is an excellent tour, to be recommended for anyone interested in this history. The cost of the tour is 25ff and lasts 2 Hours. The tours are unfortunately not given in English only Frech and German. The extent of the renovation and displays are BRILLIANT. To say that we were satisfied would be an understatement especially after visiting Simserhof first to find it closed. The people at Hackenberg told us that Simserhof would be open for July 1st, but didn't specify which year. Hope this will help to keep your Web Page up to date. Regards Graham. |
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(Many thanks to Graham for the additional information - Ian) |
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| © N Barber |